In times of uncertainty, when the world feels overwhelming, we often seek refuge in stories that resonate with our anxieties or offer a sense of comfort. While some turn to escapist fantasies, there’s a unique solace to be found in narratives of resilience and practical wisdom. For those drawn to stories of overcoming adversity with resourcefulness and grace, M.F.K. Fisher’s How to Cook a Wolf is not just a cookbook, but a timeless guide.
Published in 1942, amidst the turmoil of World War II, How to Cook a Wolf transcends the typical cookbook format. It’s a collection of insightful essays, personal reflections, and yes, recipes, all centered around the theme of navigating scarcity and hardship. Fisher’s work isn’t about gourmet indulgence; it’s a manual for survival, both physical and spiritual, when resources are limited and anxieties are high. Imagine food supply disruptions, fuel shortages, and the constant need to prepare for the unknown – this is the backdrop against which Fisher offers her culinary and philosophical guidance. She even advises readers on creating a “blackout shelf,” a pantry stocked with essentials to withstand potential bombings and disruptions to daily life, suggesting, “Probably the best way to stock your shelf is to buy two cans of vegetables when you need only one, if your local rationing allows it.”
M.F.K. Fisher, who lived from 1908 to 1992, was more than just a food writer; she was a literary artist who used food as a lens through which to examine life, love, and loss. Her prose is celebrated for its precision, sensuality, and unexpected yet perfect adjectives. Consider her evocative description of vichyssoise: “its robust delicacy, its frigid smoothness, its slightly vulgar but so dainty sprinkling of chives on the white surface.” Fisher’s writing elevates the mundane to the poetic, transforming simple acts of cooking and eating into profound experiences. While she occasionally indulges in words like “voluptuous,” in How to Cook a Wolf, her focus shifts to the more pressing concerns of making do and finding joy in constrained circumstances.
The essence of How to Cook a Wolf lies in its exploration of living fully even when “the wolf” of hardship is at the door. One particularly poignant chapter, “How to Stay Alive,” directly addresses periods of financial strain. Fisher’s advice is not about deprivation, but about ingenuity. She suggests borrowing a small sum – 50 cents in 1942, equivalent to roughly $8.30 today – and investing it wisely in staples like meat, whole-grain cereal, and root vegetables. These humble ingredients, when combined and prepared thoughtfully, can provide sustenance for an entire week. Fisher emphasizes the practicality and resourcefulness of this approach: “It is functional, really, a streamlined answer to the pressing problem of how to exist the best possible way for the least amount of money. I know, from some experience, that it can be done on this formula.”
However, How to Cook a Wolf isn’t solely about austerity. Fisher also encourages moments of culinary “flights of fancy,” even within limitations. She proposes boeuf tartare as a “somewhat barbaric dish… best with crisp bread and a glass of fairly plain red wine,” a quick and invigorating meal for times of fatigue. Roast pigeon, another suggestion, represents a deliberate act of defiance against scarcity, a way to “route” the wolf by indulging in a small luxury: “because of the impertinent recklessness of roasting a little pigeon and savoring it recklessly and voluptuously too.” These moments of culinary elevation are not frivolous; they are essential acts of self-preservation, reminding us to nurture our spirits even when resources are limited.
Fisher’s wisdom extends to transforming even the most ordinary ingredients into something satisfying. She recounts her own experiences with simple staples like frozen peas, iceberg lettuce, and salted butter, noting that “my petit pois more-or-less à la Française have always pleased me.” This highlights her core philosophy: good cooking, and by extension, a good life, is not dependent on extravagance, but on mindful preparation and appreciation for what we have.
While How to Cook a Wolf may not be your go-to source for contemporary recipes – instructions for roasting pigeon or jugging hare may not be readily applicable today – its value transcends mere culinary instruction. The book’s enduring appeal lies in its timeless message of resilience, resourcefulness, and the ability to find joy and meaning even in challenging circumstances. It’s a reminder that survival is not just about physical sustenance, but also about nurturing our mental and emotional well-being.
In our own times, when various “wolves” may feel like they are at our doors – whether they be economic anxieties, health concerns, or global uncertainties – M.F.K. Fisher’s How to Cook a Wolf offers a potent and comforting message. It encourages us to face hardship not with despair, but with practical ingenuity, a touch of audacity, and a commitment to savoring the small joys that life still offers. Let us take inspiration from Fisher’s words and, metaphorically speaking, learn how to cook a wolf, transforming adversity into an opportunity for resilience and a deeper appreciation for the simple act of living.
