Razor bumps, also known as shave bumps or barber’s bumps, are a widespread skin issue, especially for individuals who shave. They are particularly prevalent among men, especially those with darker skin tones. For some, these bumps are a constant source of discomfort and a cosmetic concern in the beard area. The good news is, dermatologists emphasize that managing and reducing razor bumps is achievable at home.
This guide provides dermatologist-backed strategies you can implement to clear up razor bumps, medically termed pseudofolliculitis barbae, or significantly lessen their occurrence and pain.
The Most Effective Solution: Grow Out Your Beard
If a beard aligns with your personal style or professional requirements, growing it out is the most definitive way to eliminate razor bumps.
Here’s the science behind why letting your beard grow works so effectively. Razor bumps form when shaving cuts hair short. In individuals with coarse, curly hair, these newly cut, short hairs can curve back and grow into the skin. This triggers an inflammatory skin reaction, resulting in the formation of razor bumps.
By discontinuing shaving, you allow these short hairs to grow longer and naturally emerge from the skin’s surface. Once the previously trapped hairs grow out, the skin can heal and recover.
Initially, you might observe new bumps even after stopping shaving. This is because hairs that were cut short during your last shave are now growing long enough to curl back into the skin. However, in due time, these hairs will also spring out.
Typically, you should notice a reduction in razor bumps within about a month. After approximately three months of beard growth, the bumps should completely disappear.
Refining Your Shaving Technique for Fewer Bumps
If maintaining a clean-shaven appearance is necessary or preferred, you can significantly minimize the number of razor bumps you experience by modifying your shaving routine.
Avoid Pulling or Stretching Skin and Never Pluck Ingrown Hairs
Pulling or stretching your skin while shaving, or attempting to pluck hairs from within a razor bump, can exacerbate the problem. These actions can lead to the development of new razor bumps and worsen existing ones by further irritating the skin and disrupting hair growth.
Alt text: Man gently shaving face with cream, preventing skin pull to avoid razor bumps.
To effectively reduce razor bumps, dermatologists advise starting by identifying the direction of hair growth in your beard area. Understanding your hair growth pattern is crucial for preventing ingrown hairs and subsequent bumps.
How to Determine Your Beard Hair Growth Direction: This step is essential, although often overlooked. It only needs to be done once and is straightforward.
Here’s how to find out your hair growth direction:
- Stand in front of a mirror.
- Tightly stretch the skin in your beard area and observe closely.
- Tilt your head up to get a clear view of hair growth under your chin.
Determine if your hair grows in a single direction or multiple directions. Men with coarse, curly hair often find their facial hair grows in various directions.
If your facial hair grows in multiple directions, dermatologists suggest training your hair to grow in a single direction. This can be achieved with a clean, new, soft-bristle toothbrush.
Gently brush your beard hairs daily in the direction you want them to grow. Consistent daily brushing helps train your beard hair to grow uniformly, significantly reducing the occurrence of new razor bumps.
Shave Regularly: Daily or Every 2-3 Days
Infrequent shaving allows hairs to grow long enough to curl back and re-enter the skin. Regular shaving, ideally daily or at least every 2 to 3 days, helps prevent hairs from reaching a length where they are more likely to become ingrown and cause razor bumps.
Alt text: Close shave with sharp razor to minimize risk of developing razor bumps.
Once you’ve determined your hair growth direction, you are ready to shave. Dermatologists recommend the following shaving techniques specifically for men with darker skin tones prone to razor bumps:
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Cleanse Your Face with a Gentle, Non-Comedogenic Cleanser: Use a washcloth or a soft-bristle face brush to apply the cleanser in gentle circular motions. This mild exfoliation helps remove dead skin cells, reducing the likelihood of hairs getting trapped and curving back into the skin.
Thoroughly rinse your face with lukewarm water to ensure all cleanser is removed. -
Apply a Warm Compress or Shave After Showering: Hold a warm compress to your beard area for about five minutes, or shave towards the end of a warm shower. The heat and moisture cause hair follicles to swell, making hairs less likely to retract into the skin after shaving.
A warm compress also aids in loosening hairs that have already become ingrown and resulted in razor bumps. To make a warm compress, soak a clean washcloth in warm water, wring out excess water, and apply it to your beard area for five minutes.
If showering before shaving, consider using an anti-fog mirror in the shower for convenience. -
Apply Moisturizing Shaving Cream Generously: Even if using an electric razor, always use a moisturizing shaving cream. Allow the cream to sit on your skin for one to two minutes before shaving. Ensure the shaving cream remains moist; if it dries out, rinse your face and reapply a generous layer to prevent dryness during shaving.
Tip
Never dry shave. Always use shaving cream to protect and lubricate the skin.
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Use a Sharp Razor Blade: Opt for a single-blade razor or an electric razor. Regardless of the type, sharpness is key. A sharp blade cuts cleanly, reducing skin irritation and the chance of ingrown hairs.
Single-blade razors typically remain sharp for 5 to 7 shaves. Replace the blade after this period.
For electric razors, replace foils and blades as recommended by the manufacturer’s instructions. -
Follow Dermatologist-Recommended Shaving Techniques:
- Shave slowly and in the direction of your hair growth. If your hair grows in multiple directions, shave in the direction you are training it to grow.
- Use short, controlled strokes. Avoid going over the same area more than twice to minimize irritation.
- When using a single-blade razor, rinse the blade after each stroke to keep it clean and sharp.
- Avoid shaving too closely or applying excessive pressure on your skin, as this can increase irritation and the risk of ingrown hairs.
Change Single-Blade Razor Blades Every 5-7 Shaves
A dull blade significantly increases the risk of razor bumps and skin irritation. Regularly replacing your blade is crucial for a clean and bump-free shave.
Alt text: Man shaving gently and replacing razor blades to prevent razor bumps.
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Rinse with Warm Water: Thoroughly rinse off all shaving cream with warm water. Any residue left on the skin can cause irritation. Rinse gently yet effectively to ensure cleanliness.
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Apply a Cool Compress: Immediately after shaving, place a cool compress on your skin for about five minutes. A cool compress can be made by running a clean washcloth under cool water, wringing out the excess, and applying it to the freshly shaved area. This helps to soothe the skin and reduce inflammation.
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Use a Soothing Aftershave: Dermatologists recommend using an aftershave specifically formulated to minimize razor bumps and skin irritation. Choose a product designed for sensitive skin. If an aftershave causes burning or stinging, discontinue use and try a different, gentler formulation.
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Dry and Store Your Razor Properly: After each use, dry your razor thoroughly and store it in a dry place. This prevents bacterial growth on the blades, which can contribute to skin irritation and infection. Avoid leaving your razor in the shower or on a damp sink.
This dermatologist-developed step-by-step shaving process is designed for individuals with darker skin tones who are prone to razor bumps. While it is effective for many, some individuals may continue to experience razor bumps despite these modifications.
When to Consult a Dermatologist
If razor bumps persist despite changes to your shaving technique and home care, it is advisable to seek professional advice from a dermatologist. A dermatologist can provide a customized treatment plan to alleviate razor bumps and prevent potential long-term skin issues. Persistent razor bumps can lead to permanent skin changes such as deep grooves and raised scars.
To find a board-certified dermatologist in your area, you can visit the American Academy of Dermatology’s website at Find a dermatologist.
Related Resources
Images Getty Images
References Daniel A, Gustafson CJ, et al. “Shave frequency and regimen variation effects on the management of pseudofolliculitis barbae.” J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(4):410-8.
Kelly AP, Serrano AMA. “Pseudofolliculitis barbae.” In: Taylor and Kelly’s Dermatology for Skin of Color. (second edition). McGraw Hill, USA, 2016:264-84.
Kundu RV, Patterson S. “Dermatologic conditions in skin of color: part II. Disorders occurring predominately in skin of color.” Am Fam Physician. 2013 Jun 15;87(12):859-65.
Ogunbiyi A. “Pseudofolliculitis barbae; current treatment options.” Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2019;12:241-7.
Written by: Paula Ludmann, MS
Reviewed by: Kesha Buster, MD, FAAD Sandy Marchese Johnson, MD, FAAD Bassel Hamdy Mahmoud, MD, PhD, FAAD
Last updated: 2/7/22
